The unexpected aria ended almost as soon as it had begun. "Are you an opera singer?" I asked a man near the cemetery chapel. "No, but can I ask you a question?" he said. A tall Black man, dark circles around his eyes that sat under short cropped white hair, dressed in blue scrubs and sandals, he wondered if I was a Christian. No, Buddhist. That didn't faze him. In the Bible, he said, Jesus gave talks to large crowds of people, but didn't speak loudly. They'd talked about it at their Watchtower meeting. He likes to test things to see if they're real or fake, so each morning he sings his note and the worker down the hill responds that he's heard it.
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